Friday 5 August - Wednesday 9 August
We spent our time in Paris visiting the places we missed the first time. These included a side trip to Chateau Chantilly and Chateau Versailles. The Cateau at Chatilly was left to the Art Institute of France fy the Duke of Ormal on one condition - that they did not change anything. All the art and the furniture etvc had to stay in the same position as he left it and it had to be open to the public. Once year after his death the chateau was officially opened to the public.
The Chateau also has a Grand Stable where they still teach horsemanship. It also housed the famous live horse museam.
We wondered around around the Chateau before joining a public tour of the private rooms of the prince etc. Amazing, I wont even try to explain the details - we bought a book to show it. After the tour, we headed over to the Grand Stables were we watched a horse show. Very cool indeed. The horses had been trained to perform certain tricks, for example, sitting down, bowing etc.
After the show we caught the train back into Paris and back to the campsite.
Chateau Versaille - Sunday 7 August 05
We got up early and caught the bus and train the to the Fat tire bike tour office. We planned to arrive early so we could burn one of our memory cards onto CD. If we weren't able to burn the images then we only had 3 shots left. No problems - Cam burnt the CD and we were all set.
After choosing our bikes and riding to the train station we caught the train to Versaille. The trip took around 20 mins. Once in Versaille we rode tot he Sunday Markets and bought food for our planned picnic lunch.
From the markets we rode to the Chateau and into the gardens. Our first stop was the village that Marie-Antonette spent her days while living in the Chateau. We saw the fattest pigs ever and the funnist thing with the fist. CLinton (our tour guide) broke a big chunk off his baguette and through it into the pond. The fish all tried to eat it - however - it was too big soo it basically moved over the top of the fish as they all flipped and flopped trying to get to the bread. It was both funny and grose all at once. It carried on for at least 15 mins before the chunk of bread disappeared under the over hanging trees. From there we rode tot he Petit Trianon and then onto to the Grand Trianon where we ditched the bikes and walked into the garden to se the Grand Canal. From there we rode down to the canal and followed it around until we were facing the Chateau. We stopped here for lunch - the view was amazing.
After some cheese and wine we jumped back on the bikes and followed the canal around to the opposite end from our picnic spot. This was right in front of the main fountain - which just happened to go on when we arrived. Very good timing.
From the fountain we rode around tothe front of the Chateau and locked up our biked. We then collected our Audio-guides and headed into the Palace. Wow !! not a wonder the French didn't really like their Royals much - the place is covered with gold mirrors and paintings. It was nearly gawdy. It was great to see what the inside of a Castle or Palace look like, nice to see how Royality lived.
After the tour we rode back to the train station and back to the office.
At the office we said our good byes to the Fat tire guys and headed back to the campground.
Monday 9 August 05
Today is our last day at the campground before heading to the the Campanile Roissy Cdg for one night before flying out to Indonesia on Wednesday morning.
We spent the day reparing ot elave. We washed our clothes and bikes. As this was the last time we were going to be using the bikes for the rest of the trip we had to remove all dirt etc so we could get through customs in Australia.
We also seperated our stuff so we could leave most of our bags at the Santika hotel in Bali when we flew to Sambawa with Mum and Dad.
Tuesday 8 August 05
We packed up camp and caught the train out to the airport. From the airport we caugh another bus to the Campanile Roissy Cdg - our hotel for the night. We settled in and had some lunch. After lunch we went back to our room and watched some in house movies and enjoying the luxury of a bath etc.
Monday, August 28, 2006
Avignon - Paris
Thursday 4 August 05
We woke up early and the wind was still blowing a gale so we decided that we would ride tothe TGV station and catch the high speed train back to Paris.
We packed up camp and checked out. The ride to the station took us a little longer than expected but was pretty painless. Once at the station, I went to buy or tickets - well actually just pay the reservation fee. We expected that there would be people everywhere but we were plesently surprised. The place was pretty much empty. I walked straight to the ticket windonw. Once we had our reservation we walked the bikes upto the platform and packed them up ready to go on the train.
THe TGV we caught was one of the new duplex units - it had 2 storeys. We were greeted by an awesome guard who got us to wait until everyone was ont he train before showing us where we could store our bikes. The trip only took 2 hours!! We couldn't believe it how quick it was to travel nearly the full length of France (approx 900 kms).
We arrived in Paris and bought the tickets we needed for the Metro. It was so much nicer getting to the campground this time as we knew where to go.
After checking in we setup camp almost in the same spot as before. We could not believe the difference in the campground from May. The place was litterally bursting at the seams.
We woke up early and the wind was still blowing a gale so we decided that we would ride tothe TGV station and catch the high speed train back to Paris.
We packed up camp and checked out. The ride to the station took us a little longer than expected but was pretty painless. Once at the station, I went to buy or tickets - well actually just pay the reservation fee. We expected that there would be people everywhere but we were plesently surprised. The place was pretty much empty. I walked straight to the ticket windonw. Once we had our reservation we walked the bikes upto the platform and packed them up ready to go on the train.
THe TGV we caught was one of the new duplex units - it had 2 storeys. We were greeted by an awesome guard who got us to wait until everyone was ont he train before showing us where we could store our bikes. The trip only took 2 hours!! We couldn't believe it how quick it was to travel nearly the full length of France (approx 900 kms).
We arrived in Paris and bought the tickets we needed for the Metro. It was so much nicer getting to the campground this time as we knew where to go.
After checking in we setup camp almost in the same spot as before. We could not believe the difference in the campground from May. The place was litterally bursting at the seams.
Chateaunerf de Pape - Avignon
Wednesday 3 August 05
We got up and packup up camp. We were heading to Avignon. The wind still had not settled but we were hopeful that we may get a tail wind.
The first 6km through town were really tough. I was in front trying to break as much wind as possible for Cam - however, this didn't really help as the wind was coming more from an angle. After 6kms we turned left and voila...... a strong tail wind. The tail wind tool us all the way into Avignon. After choosing a campground from the many available we set up camp. The campsite was huge - each tent site was loaded with 2 sometimes 3 tents. There were people everywhere. Unfortunately the wind was still blowing strongly and causing dust to blow everywhere.
We unpacked our stuff and got changed before heading into town to have a look. The campground was ont he Ile de la Barthelasse, an island that sits right in the middle of the Rhone River. We walked across the bridge and then along the side of the original rampart of the Old city. We wondered through the city admiring the Papal Palace and other sites. We went to the train station to get information on travelling back to Paris from Nimes.
We headed back to the campsite and into our tent to try and get away from the wind which was starting to really get to us.
We decided that if it was still windy like this tomorrow that we were going to pull up stumps and head back to Paris.
We went to the campground supermarket and bough some cheese and wine - which turned our to be our dinner. Well, part of it anyway - after finishing our 2 bottles of wine and a wheel of cambert we raced back to the markets and bought another bottle of wine and 2 wheels of cheese. We closed ourselved back in the tent and chilled out.
We woke up sometime around 2 am tothe sounds of a women enjoying her sex. Not particulary a great sound in the quiet of night. This went on for nearly an hour before finally stopping.
We got up and packup up camp. We were heading to Avignon. The wind still had not settled but we were hopeful that we may get a tail wind.
The first 6km through town were really tough. I was in front trying to break as much wind as possible for Cam - however, this didn't really help as the wind was coming more from an angle. After 6kms we turned left and voila...... a strong tail wind. The tail wind tool us all the way into Avignon. After choosing a campground from the many available we set up camp. The campsite was huge - each tent site was loaded with 2 sometimes 3 tents. There were people everywhere. Unfortunately the wind was still blowing strongly and causing dust to blow everywhere.
We unpacked our stuff and got changed before heading into town to have a look. The campground was ont he Ile de la Barthelasse, an island that sits right in the middle of the Rhone River. We walked across the bridge and then along the side of the original rampart of the Old city. We wondered through the city admiring the Papal Palace and other sites. We went to the train station to get information on travelling back to Paris from Nimes.
We headed back to the campsite and into our tent to try and get away from the wind which was starting to really get to us.
We decided that if it was still windy like this tomorrow that we were going to pull up stumps and head back to Paris.
We went to the campground supermarket and bough some cheese and wine - which turned our to be our dinner. Well, part of it anyway - after finishing our 2 bottles of wine and a wheel of cambert we raced back to the markets and bought another bottle of wine and 2 wheels of cheese. We closed ourselved back in the tent and chilled out.
We woke up sometime around 2 am tothe sounds of a women enjoying her sex. Not particulary a great sound in the quiet of night. This went on for nearly an hour before finally stopping.
Vaison la Romaine - Chateaunerf de Pape
Monday 1 August 05
We decided that as we didn't particulary like the campsite - especially as we couldn't use the pool - and that it was costing us 19 Euros a night we would move on rather than take a rest day.
We packed up camp and headed out of town. The route was a forst rode with some steep bits. Well 'the Planet' wasn't wrong - the climbs were sharp - this probably would have been an easier morning had we not already ridden 8 days straight. We finally started our decent before turning off and heading to what we called 'Cauliflower Mountain' (Col du Cayron 396m - on the Dentelles de Montinirail). They got their name from their appreance from Mont Ventoux. In the distance they looked like the heads of Cauliflowers!
The road climbed gradually until the last turn off where it was nearly impossible to ride. Once the road turned to dust about 200m from the Col we dumped the bikes and continued on foot. Unlike most Cols the view was not of the valley below but of the Dentelle above. The Dentelle are heavily eroided rock cliffs.
From Cauliflower Mountain we were back on the bikes and heading to Orange. The Mistral was still blowing and making the ride a lot tougher than necessary. We finally arrived in Orange and decided that we would grab some lunch at a Pizza Restaurant - we hadn't eaten out in ages. While sitting at lunch we heard a weird air sound coming from near our bikes - we both look over a saw a white pipe open onto the foot path - we didn't want to know what it was letting out.....
We finished our lunch and while walking towards the bikes we realised with dismay that the sound was my tire deflating - very weird - my bike was just leaning against the wall. After fixing the tire and finding the tourist office we had a look at yet another Roman theatre and a victory arch. While we were at the Arch it started to rain - oh goody - rain and strong wind - could this day get any harder?
We checked the map for places to stay. The local caravan park/campground charged 25 Euros per night. We dediced that we would ride to Chateaunerf de Pape which was only 10kms away. We also remembered talking to a guy in Murs who said there was a campground there.
The rain didn't amount to much and the terrain was generally downhill with the occassional pinch to ensure we were still awake.
Just before we arrived in Chateaunerf de Pape we took a slight detour to look at the remains of an ald Chateau sitting on the hill looking over town. Wow, this place would have been totally intimidating in it's day. After taking a few pics we rode into town looking for the campground. The campground was awesome, it was about a km out of town on a small island. It only costs us !2 euros per night and was so peaceful and uncrowded that we decided that we would stay for 2 nights and relax.
After setting up camp we headed back into town for some supplied. We cooked dinner and gratefully climbed in bed.
Tuesday 2 August 05
Not much really to say - we finally left the tent at about 3.30pm to go in search of the Wine Museam. We headed out of town in the wrong direction (of course) but as luck would have it, we stumbled upon a fully intack Chateau. The Chateau was being used as a hotel aso we were able to ride right up and have a closer look. The Chateau also overlooked a large vineyard obviously very sucessful given the expensive set up they had. After looking around and taking some pics we headed backt o town - unfortunately straight into the now extremely strong head wind of the Mistral. We found the Museam about 100m from the turn-off to the campsite - oh well we would never have seen the Chateau if we didn't go the wrong way to start with.
The Museam explained the history of the French Wine Industry as well as how the AOC came about. All very interesting...
After checking out the Museaum we thought we might try some of their local wines, however, after waiting for about 10 mins and still not being acknowledged (maybe we looked poor in our worn out cycling gear) we left and heading back to the campsite.
We decided that as we didn't particulary like the campsite - especially as we couldn't use the pool - and that it was costing us 19 Euros a night we would move on rather than take a rest day.
We packed up camp and headed out of town. The route was a forst rode with some steep bits. Well 'the Planet' wasn't wrong - the climbs were sharp - this probably would have been an easier morning had we not already ridden 8 days straight. We finally started our decent before turning off and heading to what we called 'Cauliflower Mountain' (Col du Cayron 396m - on the Dentelles de Montinirail). They got their name from their appreance from Mont Ventoux. In the distance they looked like the heads of Cauliflowers!
The road climbed gradually until the last turn off where it was nearly impossible to ride. Once the road turned to dust about 200m from the Col we dumped the bikes and continued on foot. Unlike most Cols the view was not of the valley below but of the Dentelle above. The Dentelle are heavily eroided rock cliffs.
From Cauliflower Mountain we were back on the bikes and heading to Orange. The Mistral was still blowing and making the ride a lot tougher than necessary. We finally arrived in Orange and decided that we would grab some lunch at a Pizza Restaurant - we hadn't eaten out in ages. While sitting at lunch we heard a weird air sound coming from near our bikes - we both look over a saw a white pipe open onto the foot path - we didn't want to know what it was letting out.....
We finished our lunch and while walking towards the bikes we realised with dismay that the sound was my tire deflating - very weird - my bike was just leaning against the wall. After fixing the tire and finding the tourist office we had a look at yet another Roman theatre and a victory arch. While we were at the Arch it started to rain - oh goody - rain and strong wind - could this day get any harder?
We checked the map for places to stay. The local caravan park/campground charged 25 Euros per night. We dediced that we would ride to Chateaunerf de Pape which was only 10kms away. We also remembered talking to a guy in Murs who said there was a campground there.
The rain didn't amount to much and the terrain was generally downhill with the occassional pinch to ensure we were still awake.
Just before we arrived in Chateaunerf de Pape we took a slight detour to look at the remains of an ald Chateau sitting on the hill looking over town. Wow, this place would have been totally intimidating in it's day. After taking a few pics we rode into town looking for the campground. The campground was awesome, it was about a km out of town on a small island. It only costs us !2 euros per night and was so peaceful and uncrowded that we decided that we would stay for 2 nights and relax.
After setting up camp we headed back into town for some supplied. We cooked dinner and gratefully climbed in bed.
Tuesday 2 August 05
Not much really to say - we finally left the tent at about 3.30pm to go in search of the Wine Museam. We headed out of town in the wrong direction (of course) but as luck would have it, we stumbled upon a fully intack Chateau. The Chateau was being used as a hotel aso we were able to ride right up and have a closer look. The Chateau also overlooked a large vineyard obviously very sucessful given the expensive set up they had. After looking around and taking some pics we headed backt o town - unfortunately straight into the now extremely strong head wind of the Mistral. We found the Museam about 100m from the turn-off to the campsite - oh well we would never have seen the Chateau if we didn't go the wrong way to start with.
The Museam explained the history of the French Wine Industry as well as how the AOC came about. All very interesting...
After checking out the Museaum we thought we might try some of their local wines, however, after waiting for about 10 mins and still not being acknowledged (maybe we looked poor in our worn out cycling gear) we left and heading back to the campsite.
Sault - Vaison la Romaine
Sunday 31 July 05
After a slow morning we finally hit the road. The Mistral had built up strength overnight and the going was pretty slow. Thank God the ride today was mostly downhill.
We ran into another Dutch cyclist in Aurel and got talking about cycling in France etc. After about 20 mins we were back on the road. For the next 20kms we decended slowly to the valley floor. It would have been an awesome decent however with the Mistral blowing we actually had to pedal.
We stopped just before St Leger for some lunch before we started our hardest climb of the day. We finally arrived in the campground only to be placed in the smallest hottest spot available. I have to admit that we did not have a reservation but we still had to pay the same (Euro19 per night) as someone with a car. Bastards!!
We were happy to find that there was a swimming pool on site - we were alreadly planning alzy afternoon when the manager advised that you are not allowed to swim in shorts. Not allowed to swim in shorts - what the.....! Well that counted Cam out unless they allowed him to swim in his Bonds : ) Don't think so!
After setting up camp and making a temporary sun shade with the tent's fly we just chilled out - happy to be out of the wind.
After some dinner we walked into town to have a look around. Vaison is famous for it's old Roman Amphitheatre and bridge. On top of the hill is a really cool Medievil town along with an old fort. We wondered through the old town before heading op to the fort for a great view of town. After taking some pics we headed back to the campsite and to bed.
After a slow morning we finally hit the road. The Mistral had built up strength overnight and the going was pretty slow. Thank God the ride today was mostly downhill.
We ran into another Dutch cyclist in Aurel and got talking about cycling in France etc. After about 20 mins we were back on the road. For the next 20kms we decended slowly to the valley floor. It would have been an awesome decent however with the Mistral blowing we actually had to pedal.
We stopped just before St Leger for some lunch before we started our hardest climb of the day. We finally arrived in the campground only to be placed in the smallest hottest spot available. I have to admit that we did not have a reservation but we still had to pay the same (Euro19 per night) as someone with a car. Bastards!!
We were happy to find that there was a swimming pool on site - we were alreadly planning alzy afternoon when the manager advised that you are not allowed to swim in shorts. Not allowed to swim in shorts - what the.....! Well that counted Cam out unless they allowed him to swim in his Bonds : ) Don't think so!
After setting up camp and making a temporary sun shade with the tent's fly we just chilled out - happy to be out of the wind.
After some dinner we walked into town to have a look around. Vaison is famous for it's old Roman Amphitheatre and bridge. On top of the hill is a really cool Medievil town along with an old fort. We wondered through the old town before heading op to the fort for a great view of town. After taking some pics we headed back to the campsite and to bed.
Murs - Sault
Friday 29 July 05
Todays ride took us up and over the Col du Murs (627m), another pass used in the Tour on a regular basis. Today was a lot cooler as we were under cloud for most of the day.
We took a slight detour upto the town on Venasque - supposed to be one of the prettiest hilltop town in France. I think Tuscany ruined us as neither of us thought that this town was anything special.
From Vanasque, we joined the route again and headed towards Blauvac and awesome views of Mont Ventoux. The decent out of Blauvac was awesome, new road surface and soft sweeping corners.
We stopped in Ville sur Auzon for lunch before climbing though the Gorges de la Nesque on our way to Sault. The Gorges were beautiful, very similar to the Gorges du Verdon but on a smaller scale. Although the road climbed the whole way to Sault (30km) it was an easy climb. As we arrived in Sault the rain started. We had just enough time to put up the tent and get all our stuff unside. It only rained for a short period of time before clearing up. We spent the rest of the afternoon trying to decide how we were going to tackle Mount Ventoux with paniers!!
Saturday 30 July 05
We woke up to a fabulously blue sky, the sun was out and the rain from last night had washed away the haze. We decided last night that we would climb Mont Ventoux and then circle back around to Sault.
So.... Month Ventoux here we come........
The climb to the Chalets was pretty easy. The grades were not to hard. What was hard was the wind. We had heard about the Mistral but has so far managed to avoid it - but not today. It is always something....
As the road climbed from Sault you cant actually see the summit as it is hidden behind a rdge. The ride is most unlike the other two major climbs in so much as you cant see where you are climbing to. Also, the road for the first 10kms or so doesn't hug the side of the hill. You could really just be climbing any old hill/mopuntain. However, the niceness of the climb cpmes top an abrupt halt 6kms from the summit. The coutryside goes from lush forest to stark white rocks, on top of all that the road turns into a 7.3% grade climb.
The 6kms are realy tough, you literally just have to grind the gears. To take your mind off the pain in your legs, the views is totally breathtaking - you can see all the way to the sea. You can also take a rest at the Tom Simpson memorial which is nicely placed about 1.5kms from the summit. Once at the top (it took us 2.30.03 to ride the 28kms) we donned our warm clothes and found a nice spot for some coffee and croissants. It was really cool - at the top there are 2 stalls with dozens of different lollies for sale. A favorite with the cyclists. : ) Yum!!
Once we had recovered we went for a look around before starting the decent. Oh we decending. According to my cycle computer, I topped out at 71km per hours, so most of you would be able to guess how fast Cam must have been going. We decended for around 25 minutes before turning off and heading back to Sault. This road turned out to be not so friendly. After decending for another km or so we started another long climb. By this time the sun was beating down on us and the going was tough - not to mention - I'd just CLIMBED Mont Ventoux - how many big climbs does one have to do in a day.
We finally made it back to the campground after stopping at the supermarket for our supplies.
What a day. Couldn't wait to climb in bed!
Todays ride took us up and over the Col du Murs (627m), another pass used in the Tour on a regular basis. Today was a lot cooler as we were under cloud for most of the day.
We took a slight detour upto the town on Venasque - supposed to be one of the prettiest hilltop town in France. I think Tuscany ruined us as neither of us thought that this town was anything special.
From Vanasque, we joined the route again and headed towards Blauvac and awesome views of Mont Ventoux. The decent out of Blauvac was awesome, new road surface and soft sweeping corners.
We stopped in Ville sur Auzon for lunch before climbing though the Gorges de la Nesque on our way to Sault. The Gorges were beautiful, very similar to the Gorges du Verdon but on a smaller scale. Although the road climbed the whole way to Sault (30km) it was an easy climb. As we arrived in Sault the rain started. We had just enough time to put up the tent and get all our stuff unside. It only rained for a short period of time before clearing up. We spent the rest of the afternoon trying to decide how we were going to tackle Mount Ventoux with paniers!!
Saturday 30 July 05
We woke up to a fabulously blue sky, the sun was out and the rain from last night had washed away the haze. We decided last night that we would climb Mont Ventoux and then circle back around to Sault.
So.... Month Ventoux here we come........
The climb to the Chalets was pretty easy. The grades were not to hard. What was hard was the wind. We had heard about the Mistral but has so far managed to avoid it - but not today. It is always something....
As the road climbed from Sault you cant actually see the summit as it is hidden behind a rdge. The ride is most unlike the other two major climbs in so much as you cant see where you are climbing to. Also, the road for the first 10kms or so doesn't hug the side of the hill. You could really just be climbing any old hill/mopuntain. However, the niceness of the climb cpmes top an abrupt halt 6kms from the summit. The coutryside goes from lush forest to stark white rocks, on top of all that the road turns into a 7.3% grade climb.
The 6kms are realy tough, you literally just have to grind the gears. To take your mind off the pain in your legs, the views is totally breathtaking - you can see all the way to the sea. You can also take a rest at the Tom Simpson memorial which is nicely placed about 1.5kms from the summit. Once at the top (it took us 2.30.03 to ride the 28kms) we donned our warm clothes and found a nice spot for some coffee and croissants. It was really cool - at the top there are 2 stalls with dozens of different lollies for sale. A favorite with the cyclists. : ) Yum!!
Once we had recovered we went for a look around before starting the decent. Oh we decending. According to my cycle computer, I topped out at 71km per hours, so most of you would be able to guess how fast Cam must have been going. We decended for around 25 minutes before turning off and heading back to Sault. This road turned out to be not so friendly. After decending for another km or so we started another long climb. By this time the sun was beating down on us and the going was tough - not to mention - I'd just CLIMBED Mont Ventoux - how many big climbs does one have to do in a day.
We finally made it back to the campground after stopping at the supermarket for our supplies.
What a day. Couldn't wait to climb in bed!
Apt - Murs
Wednesday 27 July 05
We got up early and packed up camp. We rode to Murs about 20km's from Apt. We went to the campground and set up camp. We dumped our luggage and continued to Roussillon. Another lttle town perched on a rock spur.
Roussillon is known for its blood red and ochre soil. The rest of this area has fairly light/white soil. The coloured soil is used to make ceramice glazes and pottery.
Once we arrived in Rousillon we locked up the bikes and wondered around town before taking a walk to the natural cliffs.
From Rousillon we headed back towards Murs. We stopped at the small beautiful town of Saucas and had some lunch and cooled down before climbing back to Murs and the campground.
We grabbed an early dinner and did some washing before going ot bed early.
Both of us are really tired. Tomorrow we are doing another day trip - this time we are riding to Fontain-de-Vauclause through Gordes. On friday we head to Sault and then up Mont Ventoux. On No!!
Thursday 28 July 05
Again we were up early and on the road to try and beat the heat and the tourists. Today we are heading to Fontain-de-Vauclause - a natural spring at the foot of a huge cliff at the Vauclause Plateau.
Our ride started with a very fresh decent out of town. As we came around a bend the whole valley opended up. It was an amazing sight. We were above the fog that was covering the valley floor below. The ride continued to decent into Gordes - a beautiful hill top town. From Gordes we decended for a little long before finally ascendign a short way onto a small plateau. We rode along the plateau for a short period before decending again - this time the grade was 14% - yippee - we soon arrived in Fontaine de Vaulause. This is a very small pictureesque town whose sole claim to fame is a natural spring that when running at it's peak pushed out 100m cuded per second. During summer, the sprin is little more than a 308 m deep pond in a cave. It was kinda creepy to think that were walked to - down tot he ponds edge is covered by a deadly torent of water at different times of the year. To make it clearer - were we walked was 21m below the water level of the highest flows. Amazing!! We dediced that this was a really nice spot to have a cuppa.
After coffee we rode around town before heading back to Gordes for lunch.
After lunch we decided to take the long way back to Murs via the Abbaye de Senanque. This turned out to include a long hardish climb from the Abbaye - which for once was in the valley - to the top of the Vauclause Plateau.
We finally arrived back at the campground hot and tired. We had somedinner and packed up camp in preparation for leaving tomorrow.
We got up early and packed up camp. We rode to Murs about 20km's from Apt. We went to the campground and set up camp. We dumped our luggage and continued to Roussillon. Another lttle town perched on a rock spur.
Roussillon is known for its blood red and ochre soil. The rest of this area has fairly light/white soil. The coloured soil is used to make ceramice glazes and pottery.
Once we arrived in Rousillon we locked up the bikes and wondered around town before taking a walk to the natural cliffs.
From Rousillon we headed back towards Murs. We stopped at the small beautiful town of Saucas and had some lunch and cooled down before climbing back to Murs and the campground.
We grabbed an early dinner and did some washing before going ot bed early.
Both of us are really tired. Tomorrow we are doing another day trip - this time we are riding to Fontain-de-Vauclause through Gordes. On friday we head to Sault and then up Mont Ventoux. On No!!
Thursday 28 July 05
Again we were up early and on the road to try and beat the heat and the tourists. Today we are heading to Fontain-de-Vauclause - a natural spring at the foot of a huge cliff at the Vauclause Plateau.
Our ride started with a very fresh decent out of town. As we came around a bend the whole valley opended up. It was an amazing sight. We were above the fog that was covering the valley floor below. The ride continued to decent into Gordes - a beautiful hill top town. From Gordes we decended for a little long before finally ascendign a short way onto a small plateau. We rode along the plateau for a short period before decending again - this time the grade was 14% - yippee - we soon arrived in Fontaine de Vaulause. This is a very small pictureesque town whose sole claim to fame is a natural spring that when running at it's peak pushed out 100m cuded per second. During summer, the sprin is little more than a 308 m deep pond in a cave. It was kinda creepy to think that were walked to - down tot he ponds edge is covered by a deadly torent of water at different times of the year. To make it clearer - were we walked was 21m below the water level of the highest flows. Amazing!! We dediced that this was a really nice spot to have a cuppa.
After coffee we rode around town before heading back to Gordes for lunch.
After lunch we decided to take the long way back to Murs via the Abbaye de Senanque. This turned out to include a long hardish climb from the Abbaye - which for once was in the valley - to the top of the Vauclause Plateau.
We finally arrived back at the campground hot and tired. We had somedinner and packed up camp in preparation for leaving tomorrow.
Forcalquier - Apt
Monday 25 July 05
We were up and away early again this morning. The first 10km's were cold and damp as we rode through low mist. Neither Cam nor I were feeling particularly motivated and the mist only made matters worse.
Once the mist lifted and the sun hit us with force and thankfully died us out. Unfortunately we were still feeling unmotivated. We followed the Luberon Bike route signed the whole day.
Cam and I are both pretty dissapointed with the route as it is very uneventful and takes you all over the place down crappy roads.
We arrived in Apt and set up camp at the campground near town. We grabbed some supplied from town before enjoying a bottle of wine and some cheese and chilling out in the peace and quiet of our campsite.
We decided that we would stay 2 nights and do a side trip tomorrow before heading to Murs on Wednesday.
Tuesday 26 July 05
We enjoyed a little sleep in this morning as we didn't have to pack up camp. We started the ride following the bike route to Cavaillon (the same one from yesterday) turning off at Bonnieux and heading to Lourmarin. The road from Bommieux to Lourmarin takes you between the Grand and Petit Luberons (Plateaus). The scenery was amazing as usual.
We arrived in Lourmarin and had a look around. We fixed a flat tyre on Cam's bike in the gardens of the first Renaissons stle Chateau built in France. We continued our look around town before heading to Vaugines. Another must see town int he lonely planet that wasn't particularly interesting. We headed back towards Lourmarin - a very very pretty town on our way to Buoux. The road climbs back out of the valley at a gentle grade. Once we hit the turn off to Buoux we once again decend. We followed the signs to an old fort - which just happens to be perched on the top of a rock spur. We paid our entry fee and climbed to the fort on foot. The fort initially started in the 13th Century is still in pretty good condition. The majority of the complex has fallen down with time but there are still the 3 Ramparts, Chapel, houses, guardsroom and secret staricase to admire. The complex was about 500m and went back up the hill to where the tower sat with 360 degree views. It was just amazing. They somehow cut curcle storage holes straight into the rock and used them as silos. Just near the silos in the secret staircase that would allow the entry or exit of one or more people without being seem. This staircase is also cut straight into the solid rock. All in all Cam and I spent about 3 hours amazed at everything they accomplished here.
After leaving the fort we once again enjoyed an easy assent followed by a fast decent in Saignon. Saignon is a small town also situated on a rock spur.
After a look around we rolled downhill (very quickley) into Apt and back to the campground. We enjoyed a bottle of wine and some cheese before getting ready to leave tomorrow. We had an early dinner and went to bed.
We were up and away early again this morning. The first 10km's were cold and damp as we rode through low mist. Neither Cam nor I were feeling particularly motivated and the mist only made matters worse.
Once the mist lifted and the sun hit us with force and thankfully died us out. Unfortunately we were still feeling unmotivated. We followed the Luberon Bike route signed the whole day.
Cam and I are both pretty dissapointed with the route as it is very uneventful and takes you all over the place down crappy roads.
We arrived in Apt and set up camp at the campground near town. We grabbed some supplied from town before enjoying a bottle of wine and some cheese and chilling out in the peace and quiet of our campsite.
We decided that we would stay 2 nights and do a side trip tomorrow before heading to Murs on Wednesday.
Tuesday 26 July 05
We enjoyed a little sleep in this morning as we didn't have to pack up camp. We started the ride following the bike route to Cavaillon (the same one from yesterday) turning off at Bonnieux and heading to Lourmarin. The road from Bommieux to Lourmarin takes you between the Grand and Petit Luberons (Plateaus). The scenery was amazing as usual.
We arrived in Lourmarin and had a look around. We fixed a flat tyre on Cam's bike in the gardens of the first Renaissons stle Chateau built in France. We continued our look around town before heading to Vaugines. Another must see town int he lonely planet that wasn't particularly interesting. We headed back towards Lourmarin - a very very pretty town on our way to Buoux. The road climbs back out of the valley at a gentle grade. Once we hit the turn off to Buoux we once again decend. We followed the signs to an old fort - which just happens to be perched on the top of a rock spur. We paid our entry fee and climbed to the fort on foot. The fort initially started in the 13th Century is still in pretty good condition. The majority of the complex has fallen down with time but there are still the 3 Ramparts, Chapel, houses, guardsroom and secret staricase to admire. The complex was about 500m and went back up the hill to where the tower sat with 360 degree views. It was just amazing. They somehow cut curcle storage holes straight into the rock and used them as silos. Just near the silos in the secret staircase that would allow the entry or exit of one or more people without being seem. This staircase is also cut straight into the solid rock. All in all Cam and I spent about 3 hours amazed at everything they accomplished here.
After leaving the fort we once again enjoyed an easy assent followed by a fast decent in Saignon. Saignon is a small town also situated on a rock spur.
After a look around we rolled downhill (very quickley) into Apt and back to the campground. We enjoyed a bottle of wine and some cheese before getting ready to leave tomorrow. We had an early dinner and went to bed.
Moustiers - Forcalquier
Saturday 23 July 05
We were up and on the road early again this morning. Todyas ride was really pretty as we rolled through lavender and wheat fields. The climbs were all easy and pretty short. Our first stop was Puimoisson for coffee, from there we continued through the fields until Valensole - a pretty town on the side of a hill. We decided as it was too early for lunch that we would stop and have another coffee. While climbing out of Valensole we were passed by another cyclist. About 2km's later on a long fast decent we caught him and drafted him for the next 7-8 kms. We were a fast train cruising down the hill at around 45km/hour.
We rolled into Manosque - the end of the ride at around lunchtime. As Manosque is one of the first major centres we have hit with a bike store we stopped in for some repairs. Cam's front brakes were loose and they were flexing under load and rubbing on his tired - I told Cam the simple was to avoid this was to ride slower and not use his front brakes - but we all know Cam....
From Manosque you have the option (well you don't really have any other choices) to ride to the start of the next ride which is 26km's away. As the ride had been so easy and it was still early we decided to grab some lunch and push onto Forcalquier.
The ride out of Manosque starts with a climb to Col de la Mort d'Imbert which is 591m. We then raced down the other side - right past a sign that said....
"For your safety, if you hear a sound similar to that of a jet blast, head away from the sound and leave the area immediately. Thank you."
What the.....? We are riding in a Regional Park what could possibly make that sound. Was the wildlife that bad here? : )
As we decended we came across what look like a huge Gas Pumping station or a gas field. Not what we expected to see in a regional park. Oh well - at least it explains the sign we read ealier.
Once at the bottom we climbed slowly to the town of Forcalquier. We ended up riding 78km and Jay was completely shagged.
We headed to the campground and set up camp. After freshening up we headed into town for a a look see and to gran some dinner. We headed back to the tent so a much needed sleep. Oh thank god tomorrow is a rest day!
Sunday 24 July 05
Today was our rest day and so we enjoyed a sleep in and then a lazy breaky.
After breaky we did our washing before hitting the pool. We pretty much stayed at the pool the whole day reading and escaping the heat.
At around 4.30pm we watched the last part of the Tour de France. So Lance goes out on a high. 5 Aussies in the top 10 for the day and Cadel Evans in 8th place overall
After the Tour ended we wondered up to the little Cittadel on the top of the hill overlooking town. After wondering around town for a bit we headed back to the campground and got ready to leave tomorrow.
We were up and on the road early again this morning. Todyas ride was really pretty as we rolled through lavender and wheat fields. The climbs were all easy and pretty short. Our first stop was Puimoisson for coffee, from there we continued through the fields until Valensole - a pretty town on the side of a hill. We decided as it was too early for lunch that we would stop and have another coffee. While climbing out of Valensole we were passed by another cyclist. About 2km's later on a long fast decent we caught him and drafted him for the next 7-8 kms. We were a fast train cruising down the hill at around 45km/hour.
We rolled into Manosque - the end of the ride at around lunchtime. As Manosque is one of the first major centres we have hit with a bike store we stopped in for some repairs. Cam's front brakes were loose and they were flexing under load and rubbing on his tired - I told Cam the simple was to avoid this was to ride slower and not use his front brakes - but we all know Cam....
From Manosque you have the option (well you don't really have any other choices) to ride to the start of the next ride which is 26km's away. As the ride had been so easy and it was still early we decided to grab some lunch and push onto Forcalquier.
The ride out of Manosque starts with a climb to Col de la Mort d'Imbert which is 591m. We then raced down the other side - right past a sign that said....
"For your safety, if you hear a sound similar to that of a jet blast, head away from the sound and leave the area immediately. Thank you."
What the.....? We are riding in a Regional Park what could possibly make that sound. Was the wildlife that bad here? : )
As we decended we came across what look like a huge Gas Pumping station or a gas field. Not what we expected to see in a regional park. Oh well - at least it explains the sign we read ealier.
Once at the bottom we climbed slowly to the town of Forcalquier. We ended up riding 78km and Jay was completely shagged.
We headed to the campground and set up camp. After freshening up we headed into town for a a look see and to gran some dinner. We headed back to the tent so a much needed sleep. Oh thank god tomorrow is a rest day!
Sunday 24 July 05
Today was our rest day and so we enjoyed a sleep in and then a lazy breaky.
After breaky we did our washing before hitting the pool. We pretty much stayed at the pool the whole day reading and escaping the heat.
At around 4.30pm we watched the last part of the Tour de France. So Lance goes out on a high. 5 Aussies in the top 10 for the day and Cadel Evans in 8th place overall
After the Tour ended we wondered up to the little Cittadel on the top of the hill overlooking town. After wondering around town for a bit we headed back to the campground and got ready to leave tomorrow.
Comp sur Artuby - Moustiers Saint Marie
Friday 22 July 05
We finally learn't our lesson and got up at 5.30am. We had another hard day of climbing and we wanted to get as much of the climbing dome before it got really hot and the tourists hit the road. Todays ride was full of breathtaking views and climbs. After about 15kms we came to the edge of the canyon - oh my god!! We stopped and had a bit of a look around. From there we headed tot he Ponte Artuby - the highest bridge in Europe - 180 m tall crossing the the gorge. From here the ride climbed towards the Tunnels du Fayet and our first coffee stop of the day. The tunnels are carved into the cliffface - but have windows giving awesome views out over the gorge.
After coffee we started our hardest climb of the day. After several stops to admire the scenery we were finally at the high point. From here we could see Lac du Sainte Croix to the east and up the gorge where we had come from to the west. We could also see Mont Ventoux for the first time.
After decending for 5km and dropping 400m in altitude we come to Alguinus where we stopped for lunch.
After lunch our decent continued, we dropped down to the lake. We decided to stop and have a swim to cool off. The water is the most amazing vivid aqua/green colour.
The road then climbed into Moustiers Sainte Marie and our final destination for today. After finding the campsite and setting up camp we ditched the bikes and went for a walk around town. Moustiers sainte Marie sits at the base of a huge ravine with a church perched high up on the cliff and a 1.5m gold star hangs on a wire chain between the 2 cliffs. We climbed upto the church then visited the natural spring before wondering back to the campsite for dinner and a well earnt rest.
We finally learn't our lesson and got up at 5.30am. We had another hard day of climbing and we wanted to get as much of the climbing dome before it got really hot and the tourists hit the road. Todays ride was full of breathtaking views and climbs. After about 15kms we came to the edge of the canyon - oh my god!! We stopped and had a bit of a look around. From there we headed tot he Ponte Artuby - the highest bridge in Europe - 180 m tall crossing the the gorge. From here the ride climbed towards the Tunnels du Fayet and our first coffee stop of the day. The tunnels are carved into the cliffface - but have windows giving awesome views out over the gorge.
After coffee we started our hardest climb of the day. After several stops to admire the scenery we were finally at the high point. From here we could see Lac du Sainte Croix to the east and up the gorge where we had come from to the west. We could also see Mont Ventoux for the first time.
After decending for 5km and dropping 400m in altitude we come to Alguinus where we stopped for lunch.
After lunch our decent continued, we dropped down to the lake. We decided to stop and have a swim to cool off. The water is the most amazing vivid aqua/green colour.
The road then climbed into Moustiers Sainte Marie and our final destination for today. After finding the campsite and setting up camp we ditched the bikes and went for a walk around town. Moustiers sainte Marie sits at the base of a huge ravine with a church perched high up on the cliff and a 1.5m gold star hangs on a wire chain between the 2 cliffs. We climbed upto the church then visited the natural spring before wondering back to the campsite for dinner and a well earnt rest.
Les Arcs - Comps sur Artuby
Thursday 21 July 05
On the way from Les Arcs to Comps sur Artuby we cracked the 1000km mark!!!
We got and and hit the road. We had a hard day ahead of us. The ride is 54.4kms we start the day at sea level and end at 850m above sea level.
Our furst stop was st Ampus - we had a coffee and some food to keep us going. Ampus is very much like the small hilltop towns in Tuscany. From Ampus our next stop was Chateau Double for lunch - this town was perches on the edge of a cliff. The view down the gorge was breathtaking. We called Stew to widh him a Happy Birthday - not such a nice thing to do as it was only 3 am in Canada. Sorry Stew!!
After lunch we climed again. This was long and quite hard in sections. The weather, as nice as it is, is 35 degrees celcius and makes hill climbs twice as hard as normal.
We finally arrived in Comp sur Artuby and found our campground - which just so happened to be perched on a hill (always...). We set-up camp and headed into town to grab some food for dinner.
On the way from Les Arcs to Comps sur Artuby we cracked the 1000km mark!!!
We got and and hit the road. We had a hard day ahead of us. The ride is 54.4kms we start the day at sea level and end at 850m above sea level.
Our furst stop was st Ampus - we had a coffee and some food to keep us going. Ampus is very much like the small hilltop towns in Tuscany. From Ampus our next stop was Chateau Double for lunch - this town was perches on the edge of a cliff. The view down the gorge was breathtaking. We called Stew to widh him a Happy Birthday - not such a nice thing to do as it was only 3 am in Canada. Sorry Stew!!
After lunch we climed again. This was long and quite hard in sections. The weather, as nice as it is, is 35 degrees celcius and makes hill climbs twice as hard as normal.
We finally arrived in Comp sur Artuby and found our campground - which just so happened to be perched on a hill (always...). We set-up camp and headed into town to grab some food for dinner.
Venice - Nice
Tuesday 19 / Wednesday 20 July 2005
After trying to get in contact with the Sella's family in Lucca for nearly 2 weeks we decided that we would just head straight to France to start our next ride - 'The Grand Canyons of Verdon' in Provence.
On the way to catch the water bus we ran into Roel and Caroline, we had met them in Verona. We exchanged contact details - we were also invited to come and visit them in Holland. After chatting for a bit we parted ways and continued to fight the crowds to the train station. Once we arrived (at around 11.30am) we went to book our tickets to Nice. We were told that the only train to Nice was an overnighter and that it would be 100 Euro for us to travel 1st class - what a rip off - we already had our 1st class ticket but you had to pay extra for the night train. So we decided to go couchette in 2nd class - 6 people to a room - how nice..... Our train didn't leave until 10.56pm so we dumped our bags at left luggage and headed back into Venice to kill a few hours.
The train trip was interesting - after being told that our bikes (in their bags) were a problem we tried to figure out what to do - gotta love the train guards!! This bikes is a problem - no room on this train for bikes ....." then he walked away. Well what are we supposed to do with them? We decided that as we were on the top bunks that we would bring the bikes up and sleep with a bike each - ahhhh the comfort!
THe guard came back a little while later and must have been impressed with us as he instantly changed his manner towards us. The trip was pretty smooth from then on - we both managed to get some sleep and arrived in Nice somewhat refreshed.
From Nice we changed trains and caught a regionale to Les Arcs, the start of our next ride. In Les Arcs we found the campground and set up camp. We did a little shopping, ate dinner and went to bed.
After trying to get in contact with the Sella's family in Lucca for nearly 2 weeks we decided that we would just head straight to France to start our next ride - 'The Grand Canyons of Verdon' in Provence.
On the way to catch the water bus we ran into Roel and Caroline, we had met them in Verona. We exchanged contact details - we were also invited to come and visit them in Holland. After chatting for a bit we parted ways and continued to fight the crowds to the train station. Once we arrived (at around 11.30am) we went to book our tickets to Nice. We were told that the only train to Nice was an overnighter and that it would be 100 Euro for us to travel 1st class - what a rip off - we already had our 1st class ticket but you had to pay extra for the night train. So we decided to go couchette in 2nd class - 6 people to a room - how nice..... Our train didn't leave until 10.56pm so we dumped our bags at left luggage and headed back into Venice to kill a few hours.
The train trip was interesting - after being told that our bikes (in their bags) were a problem we tried to figure out what to do - gotta love the train guards!! This bikes is a problem - no room on this train for bikes ....." then he walked away. Well what are we supposed to do with them? We decided that as we were on the top bunks that we would bring the bikes up and sleep with a bike each - ahhhh the comfort!
THe guard came back a little while later and must have been impressed with us as he instantly changed his manner towards us. The trip was pretty smooth from then on - we both managed to get some sleep and arrived in Nice somewhat refreshed.
From Nice we changed trains and caught a regionale to Les Arcs, the start of our next ride. In Les Arcs we found the campground and set up camp. We did a little shopping, ate dinner and went to bed.
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